Further out, the city fades into subdivisions (a mall and business parks in the south), then countryside dotted with towns, and, to the east, Detroit suburbs. Buses here are sparse or nonexistent; you'll want a car unless you have several hours to spare. On some autumn Saturdays, transport is difficult as 100,000-odd people pour in for university football games.

Tree town is, as one might expect, full of trees; they line the streets, and from the air, in summer, all that can be seen is a green swath with a few buildings sticking out. (In the early 20th century, after having leveled the forest that once occupied the area, the city instituted an aggressive tree-planting program that's since borne fruit.)

Winters, on the other hand, are brutal. Bring fur -- fake fur. This is a college town.

Thanks to the college students (average parental income $170,000/yr) and yuppies, downtown is a solid block of restaurants and art galleries. The university hosts cultural events, and theaters like the Michigan host first-run independent films and high-profile music groups. The original Borders bookstore is also here, as are several good independent bookshops, and the Ann Arbor Art Fair draws a million visitors each summer.

Get around

Downtown Ann Arbor is not large, so it is easy to walk it. In addition, the Ann Arbor Transportation Authority (AATA) provides bus service in and around the city.

Activities

In the summer Top of the Park is held next to the Power center.

Attractions

 • U of M science museums
 • U of M Museum of Art
 • U of M school of Art and Design, 2000 Bonisteel Blvd., (North Campus), 734 764 0397. Exhibitions by art students and faculty. Also check out their small downtown gallery, Work, on State St. between William and Liberty.
 • Ann Arbor Hands On Museum, 220 E. Ann St, 734 995-5439. Science demos and exhibits. Kids will like it a lot; adults will be fairly entertained.
 • Michigan Theater, 603 E. Liberty St. A restored 1920s cinema, complete with large pipe organ.
 • The Ark, 316 S. Main St. Good folk/rock club.
 • The Blind Pig, 208 S. First St, 734 996 8555. Rock, punk, metal, electroclash, indy, disco, house. Ultra-grungy, in the aesthetic sense (though Nirvana did play here, once.)

Shopping

 • Henrietta Fahrenheit 5 Nickels Arcade. (734)929-9348 Cool little store. Indy clothes and nick-knacks. Has gotten some national press.
 • Borders No. 001 612 E. Liberty. 734.668.7652 The original Borders bookstore (under underwhelming new management, but still a huge selection).
 • The Dawn Treader 514 E. Liberty. 734-995-1008. One of many good used bookstores downtown.
 • Encore Records 417 E. Liberty. 734-662-6776. One of the best used record stores in the country. Encyclopedic staff.
 • Digital Ops 525 E. Liberty. (734)994-1595. Internet Access / Multiplayer Gaming Facility. Play mostly PC video games, very friendly/social atmosphere.
 • Schoolkids Records in Exile State Street

Dining

 • Zingerman's Delicatessen 422 Detroit St. 734.663.DELI Vanity Fair called it "the best deli in America." It may also be one of the most expensive.
 • The Gandy Dancer 401 Depot St., (734)769-0592 Great seafood (check the buffet) in a former train station. Eat here and watch the tracks or, if you're broke (and you will be after the meal), walk along the tracks and watch the diners.
 • Krazy Jim's Blimpy Burger Corner of Packard and Division. Despite the official slogan ("Cheaper than food since 1953"), the food's great. Infinitely customizable within the burger-and-fries milieu (plus sandwiches, deep fried vegetables, etc.).
 • The Fleetwood Diner 300 S. Ashley St. Diner food 24 hours a day, and because it's Ann Arbor, there are many vegetarian options. You can't miss the shiny metal exterior, and will most likely leave with a story. Try the Hippie Hash (they make it in a bucket). *Go there quick, because they won't be there much longer. A developer bought the whole block and will be destroying this piece of Ann Arbor history.
 • Dinersty 241 E. Liberty. To be honest, this place is kind of a dump, but it's arguably the best Chinese food in Ann Arbor. They have many dishes that you won't find in other Chinese restaurants. One of my favorites is the Chinatown Wonton Noodle Soup.
 • Seva 314 E. Liberty, (734) 662-1111. With an entirely vegetarian cuisine (and many vegan options, too), this is one of the best restaurants in Ann Arbor. Tons of options, extremely delicious, friendly wait staff, and generous dishes.
 • Sushi. Come 715 N University Ave. Very popular among university students. Good sushi at good prices; consequently there can be a wait at lunch. Nice selection of specialty rolls, always fresh.
 • China Gate Corner of South University and Church. Great food with fast service. Arguably one of the best Chinese restaurants anywhere. Relatively inexpensive.
 • Exotic Bakeries, 1721 Plymouth Rd, Courtyard Shops, 734 665-4430, . An Ann Arbor restaurant featuring Middle Eastern vegan, vegetarian and meat dishes. M-F, 11am - 8pm; Sa 11am - 6pm.
 • Ashley's Restaurant & Pub, 338 South State Street, (across from the University of Michigan). A busy establishment with good food and an excellent assortment of beers (over 60 on tap). Ashley's is always a good time and worth the wait on the weekends. Open until 2AM M-Sa and until midnight on Su.
 • Grizzly Peak Brewing Company, 120 West Washington, 734 741-7325. Features a number of their own brews. In addition to its brews, Grizzly Peak has excellent food and friendly wait staff. In the fall, Grizzly Peak and other area breweries host an Oktoberfest block party, and last year celebrated the season with drink specials and an Oktoberfest beer glass.
 • Cafe Felix, 204 S. Main St., 734 662-8650. A French style cafe with the best morning cappuccino in town. Food is great including the evening tapas menu and excellent wine selection. Come sit and read, drink, and people watch.

Drink

 • Arbor Brewing Company Pub and Eatery, known by the pub faithful as ABC, is located in downtown on 114 East Washington. This establishment has outdoor seating in the warmer months and a fabulous block party Oktoberfest celebration in the fall. ABC has good food (especially the nachos) and a good variety of unique brews. They also offer a selection of Belgian ales. ABC offers monthly beer tastings with a schedule posted on their website. Open until 1AM every day. Happy Hour: 4PM-7PM Tuesday-Friday.

Lodging

 • Ann Arbor Bed and Breakfast, 921 E. Huron, 734 994-9100. Central Campus. Six guest rooms (four with decks) and two suites. All have a private bath, local phone, high-speed internet port and covered parking. Full breakfast; coffee, tea, and snacks anytime. Innkeepers: Pat and Bob Materka.
 • The Eighth Street Trekker's Lodge, 120 Eighth Street, 734 369-3107. 1875 house on the West Side. Guest room with twin beds and shared bath. Customized adventure trekking in the Nepal Himalayas. Hungarian watch cat and vegetarian breakfast included. $-$$
 • Campus Inn, 615 E. Huron St., 734 769-2200, (800) 666-8693.
 • Comfort Inn & Business Center Ann Arbor, 2455 Carpenter Rd, 734 973-6100, fax 734 973-6142. Set in a residential setting, it's conveniently located near many restaurants, shopping centers, and recreational attractions.
 • Comfort Inn Ann Arbor Hotel, 3501 South State Street, 734 761-8838, fax 734 761-8834  .
 • Quality Inn Ann Arbor Hotel, 3750 Washtenaw Ave, 734 971-2000, fax 734 971-1149

Get In

By car
Your best bet is to drive your way in. The nearest airport is in Detroit, from which it will probably be necessary to rent a car or have a friend pick you up. From Toledo and points south, take US-23 north; from Detroit, the airport, and points east, take I-94 west (or I-96 west to M-14 west); from Chicago and points west, take I-94 east; from the north, take US-23 south. There is ample parking downtown, but very little is on the curb (most is in parking garages).

By train
Amtrak. The station is located within walking distance of downtown, in the cool Kerrytown district. The train is about 5 hours from Chicago, and usually costs between $25 and $50 one-way.

By bus
Greyhound. The bus station is located right in downtown, near Main St.

Education

University of Michigan

Radio Stations

Four good public radio stations are within listening distance.

WCBN-FM Ann Arbor, 88.3 FM. Located in the basement of the Student Activities building at the University of Michigan you will find the studios of WCBN. The format is total freeform -- DJs have complete control over their shows -- which makes the broadcasts a mixed bag. The variety is stunning, though, from Sounds of the Subcontinent to emo to classic jazz to Noise Till Noon. They also broadcast a list of upcoming concerts around town at regular intervals.

WEMU, 89.1 FM. News, jazz and blues, with a tilt toward little-known fusion and crossover, from the campus of Eastern Michigan University. Consistent quality -- you'll either like almost all of it, or very little. News updates on the hour, and in the early morning and midafternoon.

WUOM, 91.7 FM. Talk radio from NPR and PRI.

WDET, 101.9 FM. News and music during the day; electronica-tinged underground music at night. Broadcast from Wayne State University in Detroit.

Stay safe

Ann Arbor is generally a very safe town, though the usual rules about common sense (i.e. being aware of your surroundings after dark) apply here as they would anywhere.

Get out

Ypsilanti - A few minutes to the east, Ann Arbor's smaller, poorer, uglier, and debatably cooler sibling straddles the edge of the Detroit metropolitan wasteland. Ypsi residents tend to see their city as more relaxed and less yuppified; it's home to Iggy Pop and the Eastern Michigan University water tower (corner of Cross and Washtenaw), which was voted the most phallic building in the world by the nationally circulated Cabinet art and design magazine.

Chelsea - Quaint, touristy little town 15 min. away. Jeff Daniels's Purple Rose Theater is here.