Isle Royale is a wilderness preserve first, a sanctuary for those seeking wilderness second, and a travel destination third. Although it accommodates all of these uses, that is the order of their priority. Wildlife gets the run of the island. Human visitors are generally restricted to established trails and accessible lakes, with "leave no trace" camping protocols in effect. And modern conveniences and comforts are limited; away from the small ports on either end of the island, only pit toilets are available. Because of its remoteness and ruggedness, and is limited open season, it receives fewer visitors in a year than many national parks endure in a day.

History

Isle Royale was once the site of a whitefish fishery, a resort community, and unprofitable copper mines. It was also the site of crude copper mining by Native Americans, centuries earlier. Today it has no permanent human inhabitants. Isle Royale National Park was established on April 3, 1940, was designated as a Wilderness Area in 1976, and as an International Biosphere Reserve in 1980.

Landscape

Isle Royale is the edge of a mostly-inactive geological fault which has pushed up from the lake floor to create a long, ridged island, with lakes and inlets of Lake Superior filling in the low points between ridges. Crossing from one side of the island to the other isn't necessarily a great distance, but is likely to involve a lot of climbing and descending. The island runs roughly WSW-to-ENE end to end, but for informal navigational purposes is usually described as if it ran directly West-to-East. The Greenstone Ridge runs the length of the island, with a trail running along most of its spine. Isle Royale itself is 45 miles (74 km) long and 9 miles (14 km) wide, with an area of about 205 mi (530 km). Several smaller islands cluster around it, forming an archipelago. The highest point on the island is Mount Desor at 1394 feet (425 m) above sea level, about 800 feet (250 m) above lake level.

Flora and fauna

The island is largely forested, with a selection of conifer (spruce, fir, pine) and deciduous (birch, aspen) trees. A wide variety of orchids and wildflowers can be found throughout the island. Thimbleberries and blueberries grow wild.

The island is the site of a long-term study of a predator-prey system, between moose (which are plentiful) and wolves (of which there are currently only a few small packs). Both species are self-introduced, either swimming or crossing the winter ice from Ontario. Other common mammals are red foxes (often scavenging around camp sites), beavers (in inland lakes and ponds), red squirrels, and snowshoe hares. Loons nest on the island, and a large variety of aquatic and arboreal birds can be seen.

Climate

At more than 45 degrees North, Isle Royale rarely gets hot. During the summer months you might reach shorts-and-t-shirt weather, but you'll also experience some cool and/or rainy days. Although some months are drier than others, a stay of several days without at least some rain is fairly uncommon. Hayfever sufferers will be pleased to find few common pollen allergens in the air. In the winter, conditions are inhospitable and the island is closed to all but researchers.

Get around

Except for a few wide, flat trails in the Snug Harbor area, there are no roads - and no road vehicles - on the island. As a wilderness area, it does meet modern expectations of accessibility for persons with disabilities. All transportation is either on foot, by canoe or kayak, or by Lake-Superior-worthy motorboat. A network of maintained trails connects most parts of the island. Several of the inland lakes and protected inlets of Lake Superior are connected by portages ranging from a few dozen feet to a few miles.

A fairly costly "water taxi" is available for hire out of Snug Harbor. Booking passage on the Voyageur - which provides travel between Grand Portage and the island, but also circumnavigates it between crossings - can be used to reach several designated docks around the island.

Attractions

The primary attraction is the wilderness of the island. Although it is not "untouched" - Isle Royale has a long history of human presence, and even habitation and exploitation, and the trails and campsites are inherently non-virginal - the remoteness and careful management of the island have combined to make for one of the more authentically "wild" experiences within the National Park system. Sightings of small fauna such as squirrels and songbirds are inevitable; fox, moose, and even loon encounters can be expected if you look for them; and signs of the island's wolf presence - footprints, scat, and maybe even howls - are just common enough to keep hikers' eyes and ears open for them.

Shopping

There is a fairly well-stocked camp store at Snug Harbor and a smaller store at Windigo. Neither should be relied upon for provisioning your trip (due to cost if nothing else), but can provide a handy safety net if you discover you've left something behind.

Dining

There is a restaurant at the Rock Harbor Lodge which is open to both lodge guests and campers; be prepared to pay premium prices. But for the most part you'll be eating what you pack in, perhaps along with lake-caught fish and maybe some trail-picked berries. Freeze-dried meals are your best bet for on the trails/lakes. Open fires are prohibited, so a gas-powered camp stove is recommended.

Drink

There is potable water available at the ranger stations at both Snug Harbor and Windigo. All other water should be presumed infected with parasites, and either filtered or thoroughly boiled before drinking or cooking.

Lodging

For those preferring a roof and four walls, the Rock Harbor Lodge offers both modest hotel-type rooms overlooking Lake Superior and larger free-standing "housekeeping" cabins, all near "downtown" Snug Harbor.

Camping

The vast majority of visitors to Isle Royale stay in the 36 designated campsites accessible through the network of trails crossing the island, and/or by canoe or kayak on water routes. These sites contain a limited number of three-sided covered and floored wooden shelters (the fourth wall is screened), and smaller individual tent sites. A few campsites have larger tent sites for small groups, which must be reserved.

Backcountry

Backcountry camping - hiking off the trails and camping in non-designated sites - is possible only with a special permit. It is advised only for experienced hikers due to the ruggedness of the terrain and difficulty navigating in mostly-wooded areas.

Get in

Isle Royale is accessible only by boat or floatplane. Most visitors travel via scheduled commercial ferry services from Houghton, Michigan  ; Copper Harbor, Michigan  ; or Grand Portage, Minnesota  . Private boats also come to the island, mostly from nearby Thunder Bay, Ontario. Ferries from Michigan dock at Snug Harbor, an inlet of Rock Harbor near the east end of the island; this is the largest built-up area on the island. Ferries from Minnesota dock at Windigo, a smaller port at the west end of the island. The floatplane service operates out of Houghton and can dock at either port.  

Fees/Permits

A fee of $4 per day is charged for visitors to the park, 12 years and older, collected by the services providing transportation to and from the island. Park visitors are required to file a "hike plan" indicating the campgrounds they expect to use each night, primarily for usage-tracking purposes. Special permits and reservations are required for large groups and off-trail hikers.

Activities

Canoes can be rented by the hour at Snug Harbor. A small number of guided tours and activities are offered, primarily out of the Snug Harbor ranger station and Rock Harbor Lodge. Fishing and nature photography are popular self-guided activities.

Stay safe

The wolves do their best to avoid humans, so they pose little real danger. The moose can be very dangerous if provoked, especially if you get between a mother and her calf, or if you confront a bull during mating season, but otherwise are nothing to be afraid of. The greatest danger is your own foolishness: pushing yourself too hard or ignoring basic standards of hiking or canoeing safety. Canoeing, kayaking, and swimming in Lake Superior can be particularly hazardous due to the hypothermia-inducing water temperature. If you're injured, there's limited medical assistance available on the island, and it might take a while to get to you.

Get out

The barrier islands that shield Rock Harbor from Lake Superior can be explored by canoe, and the other islands in the archipelago can be explored via motorboat. Kayaking on the open waters of Lake Superior can be dangerous for inexperienced paddlers.